Recap
Watch industry specialists, like those in my family, considered Hamilton the best American watch company prior to 1971. Hamilton earned its reputation because the company led in innovation. They invented the first electric watch, friction jeweling, non-magnetic alloys for hairsprings and so forth. After 1971, the Hamilton pristine reputation remained, but it became a Swiss rather than American watch company.
Between 1971 and 1982, Tissot and Omega Holding Company of (SSIH) used Hamilton’s well-known brand name for several (exact number unknown) marketing efforts. One of these marketing campaigns focused on the sell of quartz movements made by ESA. At that point, Hamilton became a leading Swiss watch company specializing in quartz movements.
In 1982, SSIH experimented with Hamilton’s old designs from the 1920’s and 30’s. At the time, a “retro” look in fashion took took off in the United States. To keep pace with the growing fad, Hamilton reissued five of their most popular wristwatch models with updated movements. The experiment worked.
Only one of the first models used a mechanical movement. The rest used high-end quartz movements made by ESA’s successor, ETA.
ETA (E.T.A is pronounced using each letter. It is not et-ah as some uneducated watchmakers use that term. When I hear, et-ah, I tend to cringe.
ETA emerged from the ashes of the Swiss Quartz Crisis 1974-1982. Nicolas George Hayek reorganized
1. Unitas manual wind 6565. Only present in the 1982 Hamilton Boulton. Approximately 3000 made and 2032 release for sale to the public.
Hamilton 304 (Unitas 6565)
8.75”’, Dm= 19.4mm, Do= 19.7mm
H= 3.3mm
F= 0.7mm
T= 1.6mm
17 jewels
f = 21600 A/h
power reserve 50h
Balance staff U3460
Stem W3695
Mainspring / battery
Zf1198, 1.50 x 7.5 x 0.09 x 220mm
Hands
1.20 x 0.60 / 0.18mm
2. The first movement was an ETA 582.001. As one of my instructors said, this was a tank. It’s found in several high-end watches in Swatch Group, Ltd. watch brands. The company discontinued it in
2000.
Ligne 8 3⁄4
M/M Diameter 19.4
THhicckness 3.20
Dial feet 5:30 & 11:00
Hands 60/110/16
Cell 397
Stem 401-1150
TAP 10
Small Second
Two existed – the one jewel and a seven jewel model
5.0mm from center to the second hand.
You will find these movements in early versions of
Cabot, Piping Rock, Wilshire, Dickens, Emerson, Essex, Contour, and Ardmore
3. ETA 980.163. This is a movement found in numerous Swatch company watches. It’s a popular movement. Production dates back to the early 1980’s.
Outside Diameter: 5 1/2 x 6 3/4 Ligne or 13.0 x 15.15 mm
Movement 2.20 mm thick
Overall height from the bottom of the movement to the top of the canon pinion is 3.2 mm
Requires watch cell 317-379
Requires watch hands: hour 1.20, minute .70, and small second .20 mm
Has 15 jewels
Stem: 401-1280, Tap 10
Includes watch stem
ETA quartz movement
Swiss assembled
Overall height of the hour wheel is 1.00 mm
4. ETA 980.153. The ladies version of the men’s 980.163. This movement is slightly smaller than the 163, but has a very similar look.
Outside Diameter: 5 1/2 x 6 3/4 Ligne or 13.0 x 15.15 mm
Movement 2.20 mm thick
The height from the bottom of the watch movement to the top of the minute pinion is 3.2 mm
Overall height of the hour wheel is 1.23 mm
Requires watch cell 317-379
Requires watch hands: hour 1.20, minute .70, and small second .20 mm
Has 11 jewels
Stem: 401-1280, Tap 10
Includes watch stem
ETA quartz movement
Swiss assembled
5. ETA 980.005. Two-handed movement replaced by 901.001
Caliber: 901.001
Linge Size: 5½ x 6¾
Thickness (MM): 2.20mm
Hand Size: 120/70
Stem: 401-1369
Cell/Battery/Power Source: 321
Tap Size: 10
5.75 x 6.75”’, Dm= 13.0 x 15.15mm
H= 2.2mm
T= 0.8mm
3 jewels
f = 32768 Hz
6. Used in mid 1988 chronograph and continued until today.
Outside Diameter: 10 1/2 Ligne or 23.0 mm
Movement is 4.70 mm thick
The height from the bottom of the watch movement to the top of the sweep second pinion is 6.6 mm
Has a date display at 4:00
Requires watch cell 394
Has a time zone setter
7 handed movement
Requires watch hands: hour 1.50, minute .90, sweep second .30 mm
Requires 3 small sec watch hands: .20 mm
Has 23 jewels
Stem: 401-1484, Tap 10
Includes watch stem
ETA quartz movement Swiss assembled
7. Ventura (Men in Black) used ETA 955.412 quartz movement
Outside Diameter: 10 1/2 Ligne or 23.3 mm
Movement is 2.50 mm thick
The height from the bottom of the watch movement to the top of the sweep second pinion is 3.9 mm
Overall height of hour wheel is 1.06 mm
Has a date display at 3:00
Dial is white
Requires watch cell 395
Requires watch hands: hour 1.20, minute .70, and sweep second .20 mm
Has 7 jewels
Replaces stem: 401-906, Tap 10
Includes watch stem
Replaces discontinued movements: PUW241, BUL2682.47, 6022.17, and Certina 184
ETA quartz movement
Swiss assembled
Gold Plates
8. Used in the reproduction of the 1928 Yankee’s Hamilton Piping Rock – Issued between 1988 – 2000. FHF 138.001 manual movement.
Features:
manual wind
sub-second
date: quickset
Outside Diameter: 8.75 Ligne or 19.4 mm
Movement is 2.50 mm thick
The height from the bottom of the watch movement to the top of the second pinion is 3.7 mm
Overall height of hour wheel is 3.7mm
Has a date display at 6:00
Dial is white
Requires watch hands: hour 1.10, minute 7.5mm, and second .18 mm
Has 17 jewels