If you shop around for early 1900’s Hamilton watches, especially on eBay, you will find this watch or a variation of it. It came with a 987 movement and that confuses sellers. I’ve seen them called many different names – but I’ve never seen them referred to as a Chevy Chase
It has a Fahy case, a second hand at the six o’clock position and it is large enough to be mistaken for a man’s watch.
It’s a ladies watch.
It originally came with a ribbon band.*
Recently, a like model didn’t sell on eBay even
though it was priced at $60. Why?
Hamilton watch buyers are only after the movement.
The dial, hands and crown have some value
(the minute wheel is unique to this model) – but
not enough to push the price to $60.
This watch is worth about $40-45
as a parts watch.
1927 Hamilton Watch with 987 Movement on eBay.
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I restored the one above. Hamilton’s original craftsmanship is remarkable. It’s a white gold Fahy case (25 year guarantee). The engraving is superb and it was done by hand. This wasn’t a molded or an American System of Manufacturing product. The finish was done by Hamilton and the interchangeable parts were delivered by the case manufacturer. The notches for the back and bezel were hand filed. Hamilton employees did the finish work. I have several of these cases and they are finished separately, yet the back and bezel are interchangeable with some slight adjustments.
The 987 caliber movement is made for tight tolerance, high-end watches. The 987 wasn’t certified for Railroad use because it’s a 6/0 size and the service requirements for engineers was size 18 and 16. However, the balance is Breguet and it maintains consistent time from the first wind of the mainspring until the last revolution. It does not slow down or speed up at different times during the day.
Like certified timepieces of the epoch, the 987 adjusted to at least 5 positions, kept time accurately to within a gain or loss of only 30 seconds per week, adjusted to temperatures of 34 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit, had a double roller, steel escape wheel, lever set, micrometric regulator, grade on backplate, use of plain Arabic numbers printed bold and black on a white or light silver dial, and has bold black hands.
This case is three piece and has a tight crown over a protruding barrel protecting the winding and setting stem to keep from accidentally bumping the crown and changing the time unwittingly.
I do have concerns with any watch this age and that’s the quality of the movement and the case. I have had Bulovas and Elgins which I sold for multiples of what I have paid for Hamilton’s Wristwatch for Ladies.
The Bulova and the Elgin cases were made from thin base metal. I could bend the with little concern. The movements were low grade with wide tolerances, so parts seemed interchangeable.
I had significant problems with the Bulova 10AN, for example. I found interchangeable parts, but they didn’t fit well, needed retrofitting and the adjustments didn’t provide for serious loss of time.
The Elgin 423-430 and the multitude of 3/0 models seemed to have interchangeable parts. They did fit in most case, but Elgin mass produced their movements and accuracy suffered.
The 987’s interchanged even with the tight tolerances. Now, we’re talking about 90 year-old movements. You can retrofit the balances from the later Elvinar 987E models. Try that with any other American or Swiss movement.
Frankly, the Wristwatch for Ladies is one of the best watches Hamilton ever made and yet commands little respect from the Hamilton collectors community. In today’s “big watch” environment, I like the size. At the same time, I only recommend it for special occasions. If your daughter wants to beat up her plastic bracelets and rings, buy her an inexpensive plastic, quartz Swatch. Otherwise, 987 ladies watch has more contemporary appeal for “ladies”.
The watch to the right is cased by Fahy. It’s a two hand pendant watch with a 986a movement. It’s not a high-tolerance performer like the 987. Hamilton used the 986 series in ladies pendant watches.
The 986 watch lacks the proper crown and stem for its case. All the Hamilton 6/0 movements used a tap 6 thread. Eventually, the restorer will find a 987 crown to fit the case. He or she will file the stem down and the crown with look like it belongs on the watch. It’s doubtful that a crown to cover the barrell is available. It’s possible or more likely than not that someone will list it as a buy it now auction and ask $250 for it. They will claim that it’s a 1914 art deco watch.
The art deco period didn’t start until around 1922 in France and if the 986 series was in a Hamilton watch, it was a pocket watch.
Below you will find information on the Wrist Watches for Ladies from Hamilton’s 1929 Catalog. Note that these models used a 987 movement. Why do you see so many of the for sale?
Hamilton made a lot of them and they didn’t sell well. Instead, the smaller 989 ladies watch became the standard.
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| Note the Ribbon Bands
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