(Skip down to the bottom of page for an important, but short discussion about (and links to) dial refinishers).
I had reluctance-problems with having someone restore my vintage watch dials. Aside from bad service, I didn’t like the results. In one case, I bought two 1917 white gold Hamilton strap watches. I could not even read the dials and they looked awful.
I had one re-dialed. I consulted forums and friends and they strongly suggested that one should send dials out to a specific, well know re-finisher. I had used him before. The dial came back and didn’t look anything like the original. In fact, I thought it looked cheap and inauthentic. It did look cheap and inauthentic. I ruined the watch.
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| Restored and Original |
One of the watch school teachers I met said that he had a student who used Adobe Photoshop to restore his old dials. He scanned the image and cleaned it up using software. He matched the color of the dial by finding a clean spot and mixed enamel used for model airplanes and cars for the base. Somehow he applied the numerals,second markers, logo and other accouterments of the dial using clear temporary tattoo film. He printed the tattoo with Photoshop and a high quality laser printer. That’s as far as I got. I never tried it.
I could replicate that process if I wanted as I have significant experience with Photoshop and it’s free clone – GIMP. Like commercial restoring, the process damaged the original vintage of the watch. If you ever caught Antique Road Show, you’ve seen the appraisers diss the owners for having “fixed” a valuable piece by refinishing it and rendering it valueless.
Following dozens of forum threads I finally found someone who had managed to make his vintage and antique watch dials look pretty good. And, he maintained the original dial. I tried it.
First, he brushed the dial with a cosmetic dusting brush he bought at the drug store. It’s the same brush I use when poising a balance wheel. He brushed it gently. When I tried it, some dust and dirt came off. The dial actually looked better.
Next, he used Rodico to remove the hard-to-get dirt. (You will find the majority of the hard dirt around the edges of the dial. I felt amazed to see the original plate clean up nicely too.) Again, he did this gently. I did it and the dial became readable.(On other dials, I also noticed it brought back the shine to the gold numerals.) Again, I had to do this gently.
Interesting note. I looked at the Rodico and it had plenty of dirt on it. That surprised me.
Next, I put some Gain dish soap in the sink with water – a slight warmth to the solution. I used watch paper to pick up some suds. I moved them on the surface and dabbed it with dry watch paper. This took 4 seconds.
If the dial needed more, then I would repeat that “after the dial dried” from the first sudsing. Unlike the author’s suggestion, I didn’t use a hair dryer. I agreed with him when he wrote that water left on the dial would ruin it. Watch paper works when cleaning and drying hairsprings,so I used the paper.
The process I used worked. I still had the original finish, a clean dial with it’s natural patina. It looked good to me.
Hamilton used the best materials on their dials. Of course, you can’t find the paints they used. No one makes those paints. Today’s materials are synthetic. I noticed that Hamilton originally baked (heated) the enamel on the watch plate. It’s sturdier than I thought.
If you have tried to clean enamel dials before and ruined them, you probably roughed them up. You have to use gentle motions and realize that you just want to remove the dirt. OK, so it doesn’t look like a new Bulova. Exactly. It’s a vintage watch.
This process doesn’t work for all dials. If you have one with significant damage and you want it to look nice, then have it refinished. I suggest, you talk to several restorers and find one you like. After you choose one, ask the restorer to dull the colors a bit to give it a vintage look. Or not.
Respectfully submitted.
A little update. Today, I contacted a restorer in Orange County. I saw a video of his on YouTube. He wants $175 to refinish one. I wrote back and asked if that was the cost of buying a dial. No, he wants $175 to refinish one. If you do decide to restore a dial, expect to spend somewhere around $20-35.
About commercial dial refinishers.
When Hamilton was still an American company, they actually recommended dial replacement. Why? In those days, wristwatches were not completely sealed and the elements caused damage. Customers didn’t find it unusual for a service center to offer new dials with standard watch repair and, or service.
I’m not exactly a fan of refinishing, but I have purchased New Old Stock (NOS) Hamilton dials when they show up on eBay. You know they’re original because they have a number at the bottom.
If I buy a watch with a totally unreadable dial, I have it refinished. Period. I’ve used a few services. The one most often mentioned is International Dial. They are unquestionably the most popular and busiest dial refinisher. They also have the lowest prices. Eagle Dial is somewhat comparable. They’re smaller and don’t cover as many models. They also don’t have a website. You have to call them at: 215-925-7423.
A complete listing of watch dial refinishers exists at Mike’s Clock Clinic . The list is extensive.
If you want a nice overview of refinishing I suggest two sites. First, one of the best discussions I have seen is located on the Internet Horology Club with Robert Miller of International Dial.
For a nice discussion and a visual look at dial refinishing go to Time Piece Ltd. and you’ll see their pages about refinishing. I found this educational.
If you are looking to identify a Hamilton wristwatch, you can find a complete selection by date from Hamilton Dealer catalogs at this link Hamilton-Vintage-Wristwatches
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