Sometimes, Hamilton watch forums can get lively. (A forum you might want to bookmark).
We had a question about dial restoration.
I wrote: You might consider a couple of angles on this. First, why would you restore it in the first place? I can think of a couple of reasons. First, you want to resell them. Secondly, you want them to look nice in your collection. That’s OK. I’m not sure that’s a collectors goal. If you collect coins, you want to fill-up your book. The worst thing you can do is clean the coin. If you want clean coins, buy a mint set.
Another angle is to just collect them. In that situation, you might want to clean them up enough so they don’t deteriorate further. If your crystals are scratched, replace those and if you want it them to run – not just tick – then do a cleaning, oiling and adjustment (COA). I used to buy Hamilton watches to resell them. I restored them, put them on eBay and got an OK price for them. I wish I had everyone of them back. Think about restorers that gold plate older watches. It’s a crime.
I have to ask myself: what am I in this for?
After which, several people made comments:
- A live collection?
- Hamilton’s not the top of the line price-wise
- Learning to restore Hamilton wristwatches by using up a few
- Mine is just an opinion, it’s a subjective to the buyer
I appreciate the opinions, especially the idea of a live collection. (Refurbish Hamilton’s worn daily).
It’s true that Hamilton watches are not the top of line collectibles price wise. They’re the most collectible. I just have a high respect for them “subjectively” (and price shouldn’t dictate popularity).
Not to offend anyone and I mean that; I’d practice on 15 Jewel Elgins. Thy’re cheap and plentiful e.g, Hamilton would make a run of 25,000 and Elgin would copy the design the next year and run 250,000. Whenever we start to learn restoration, we will probably mess up the first ones, particularly without a mentor. That’s a broad generality, but I believe it applies to any hobbyist who hasn’t completed a Certification course. Anyway, early-on, I practiced on Elgins (some years ago) after messing-up a few Hamiltons. If I knew then what I know now, I would have tucked the Hamiltons away.
It’s all subjective as you say. However, just because you bought them cheap, doesn’t mean one should think less of them. Within the last month, I found two on eBay in the $25-40 dollar range. People by-passed bidding on them because they didn’t run. One was just a slight adjustment away from ticking and the other ticked. Case refurbishers would offer those watches as “minty”. All it takes is polishing the case, getting a new crystal and a band. I used to restore and sell. I just won’t do that any more, because there’s not that much money in it. Watch – $35, crystal $20, dial $29 and maybe $10 for the band.That’s $94 and I would be lucky to see $125 before fees, after I COA’d (serviced) it myself. Also, these watches are undervalued.
Subjectively, I’d rather have the movement turn into a runner, but your eBay bidders don’t get it. If it ticks that’s all they want. Some mechanisms like the keyless works for winding and setting and the mainspring barrels run metal to metal. Wheels will even break if the jewels are gummed up. Find a 90 year-old watchmaker that will clean and oil the movement for $35 and you make no money.
I would urge any vintage wristwatch collector to consider all aspects of restoration. That said, you know your goals and do what works.
A revealing reply to my argument:
Wow, a lot of good points here. I have always tended toward keeping my humble collection as original as possible.
I know a lot of collectors will argue that most manufacturers, back in the day, nudged their dealers into replacing dials with fresh (ones) when the watch was in for routine service. How could the jeweler argue, it was an additional revenue stream?
So, I think a lot of the vintage American collectors today don’t see it as that much of a sin to have the dial refinished the way Swiss fans of the same period do.
I don’t have need to see a pristine watch smiling back up at me in most cases. (There are some dials that are too far gone, but, I don’t generally bid on them unless the case is to die for.) I like for people to comment that I am wearing a vintage piece.
I would definitely classify my collection as ‘live’ because the biggest part of collecting for me is to wear them as well. And, I don’t intend to sell my favorites so, I am the only person I have to satisfy. (My wife has commented before, “why are you wearing that watch, it looks old!” I say, “Precisely!”
Thanks! Now, about restoring. With tears in my eyes, I’ll show you some
watches I restored and sold and would love to have back:
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